|
The Town of ONGERUPNEW
A flashback, spanning more than 50 years by W.F. Mills in 1965. “My first thoughts go back to the Pioneer Women—the wives and mothers of the early settlers—whose families now extend, in some instances, to the third and fourth generation.
EARLIEST SETTLER
The earliest settlers were Alexander John Moir and family, who subsequently owned 206, Slab Well, 217, and 218; previously selected by G. Moir in 1880 and Warperup in 1882.
During 1870 and 1880, most of this country was selected under the land regulations as pastoral licences by A. Moir, G. Chester, and J. Hassell.
There was practically no further settlement in this locality until 1906 when a number of locations were surveyed by Surveyor Russell. Apart from these isolated selections, no further surveys were carried out until 1910, also by Surveyor Russell.
From Slab Well and Warperup, Alexander John Moir selected further land following the Warperup Creek to Tarbunkenup, facing east on the north end of Ongerup town-site.
The only survivors of Alexander John Moir's family are Mrs. Bernice Stone of Borden, Victor Moir of Warperup, and grandson, Bruce Carlysle, whose mother was Gladys Moir.
PIONEER FARMERS
Early in 1911, pioneers were as follows: Jack Lee, Athol Jones, Hughie Rogers, Bill St. John, Tom Lamont, Jack Thomson, Fred Mills, Jack Magner, Bill Hill, the Walker family, John Vaux, Henry Jackel, Robert Connell, Andy Anderson, Don Muro, Alex Lamont, Albert (Toby) Carpenter, George Bellingham, Steve Carpenter, Samuel Foster, Maudie, and Mrs. Eldridge.
ONGERUP TOWN SITED
Ongerup town was first sited on the reserve 12 miles northwest of the present town, adjacent to Robert Connell's selection known as Ongerup Rocks, now owned by Andy O'Neil.
A survey for the railway was taken from the reserve then north of Walkers' selection but found not suitable and it was abandoned in favour of the location used prior to the line being closed in favour of road transport.
FIRST BUILDING
The first building in the town was owned by Miss A. M. Eldridge, later known affectionately as Maudie Eldridge, together with her mother, arriving in Ongerup early 1913. They lived and kept a store in a bough shed with an iron roof.
Their only noticeable possessions were two pug dogs, Lady Betty and Nero, a cockatoo, and a .32 calibre revolver. Naturally, Maudie, being a very attractive and enterprising young lady, didn't have to look far for a helping hand, or rather hands, as all the young bachelors were more than willing and in evidence, clearing the land and erecting the bough shed.
The firewood heap of chopped wood was a credit to all helpers, who also built a stone fireplace for the cooking stove.
Not only did these women keep a very efficient store—you could get morning and afternoon tea, hot scones with all the frillings, at a small charge of nine-pence a nob.
The Eldridges came from Perth where Maudie was employed as a ledger keeper for E. and S. Wigg, stationers, in Hay Street. Then she purchased a small store at Tammin and eventually came to Ongerup.
They battled away in the bough shed for a considerable time while the permanent building was being erected by two very amateur carpenters who were unable to carry on to completion and finally left this enterprising young lady wishing she could get a carpenter to finish the building.
Myself, just left, after having had afternoon tea—one of the competitive bachelors said, “There goes a carpenter who has built his own house; he's just had afternoon tea here after arriving by train."
Another kind bachelor chased after me and said the young lady wished to see me. She eventually persuaded me to finish the building for her, to her entire satisfaction as a general store, post and telegraph office. She then gave a housewarming.
EXIT ALL BACHELORS
Then the fun and games started—putting hooks in the ceilings and nails in the walls to hang the hardware and their own hats. Eventually, she married Cecil Connell, son of Police Inspector Connell of Perth.
Exit all other bachelors. I can still imagine I can hear the old cockatoo screeching out, imitating the elder lady Eldridge—"C-e-c-i-l, no wood about, no wood about, C-e-c-i-l."
The telegraph office those days was connected to the railway telephone line. Eventually, they erected another building in 1918 and opened it up as a boarding house, confectionery, and vegetable store, now occupied by the R and I Bank.
They sold out to W. P. Hill, and it changed hands again in 1827 to Mr. A. G. Slee. The business was finally owned by the Ongerup and Needilup Co-op, who carry on a progressive business nearby.
Maudie's original store, occupied at present as the first cafe, has had a variety of changes. From store, post and telegraph office and hardware to bakery and cafe for several years. Built in early 1913, it claims to be the first and oldest of Ongerup's permanent buildings.
ONLY ONE LEFT IN ONGERUP
Now a word about the early days and progress of the town. Firstly, I raise my hat to all Pioneer Women of Australia. The only one left now in Ongerup of the earliest pioneer women is Lamont, wife of Norman Thomas Lamont, of 54 years residence, and highly respected for many miles around.
MY EXPERIENCES
Now just a brief word of my own experiences—I was born in the city of London in 1880 and married in 1900.
Three months later, we decided to give away the smoke and smogs of London and live in the country, and we did so for the following 11 years. Then we decided to sail for Australia-land of promise and sunshine.
My wife and I, together with two sons, nine and seven years, arrived from England to Fremantle in 1911.
We stayed in Perth for one year to get acclimatised to conditions. We arrived in Ongerup in 1912, the year the railway was officially opened. In those days, new settlers were granted the use of a 10-ton truck free of charge. We brought sufficient jarrah and a ton of roofing iron (those days iron cost only £23 a ton) and built a two-roomed cottage.
We also brought enough dry goods and tinned foods to last at least six months, sundry useful articles of furniture, and a 16-foot square marquee tent made by ourselves out of 14 oz. drill, in which we lived for 10 days while all hands and the cook erected our cottage, which I had pre-cut while we lived in Bayswater.
For cooking, we used the proverbial camp oven and two methylated spirit stoves at the prime cost of ninepence each while we built the chimney to set in the cooking stove.
CHURCH SERVICES
Church service was held once a month under the trees at the south-east corner of Walkers' 4,000-acre selection.
Later, a bough HALL (please note the name hall) was erected, also on Walker's property, two and a half miles further along the south-west corner at the crossroads known as Vaux and Gunther's roads by the name of Munro's corner, 8 miles north of Ongerup townsite.
Bush poles for seating, bring your own cushions and a plate of eats for after Church service and general meeting.
EARLY MAIL RUN
Prior to the railway and Maudie's post and service telegraph office, a weekly mail was run by Mr. Jack Harris, starting at Broomehill, to Gnowangerup, stopping at Munro's corner, thence on to Warperup, Toompup, Mungup, Moana, and Borden.
The mailman camped en route and arrived back at Broomehill several days later with his buggy and a pair of horses.
An inward mail was run by pony. Later, by mail cart from Needilup to Ongerup by the Foster family of Needilup from 1912 until December 1921, when tenders were called for an outward motor service on Sunday from Ongerup to North and South Needilup, later extended further south to Salt Bush returning to Ongerup.
Being the successful tenderer, I ran it from 1922 to 1936 with only two minor breakdowns, using a 490 Chevrolet car known as the grasshopper owing to its peculiar type of springing.
Motoring in those days was not a real joy or pleasure. Poor roads, bush tracks, five creeks to negotiate, opening and closing some very unmentionable “cocky-gates" was exceptionally good going.
When creeks were running a banker, I'd release the exhaust at the manifold, wrap a ten-foot binder canvas around the radiator and front fenders, and sail merrily through, hoping for the best. But the old binder canvas never let me down.
During the rainy seasons, sticky mud, worse than old Noah left after the flood, through the flats—nothing doing without rear-wheel chains.
THE FIRST SCHOOL
The first school was built in 1915 just above Lee's creek on the Needilup Road, two and a half miles from town, where church services, meetings, socials, and dances were held to the strains of the old "squeeze box" played by two local lads.
Eventually, that school was sold and transferred to North Needilup and erected on Mr. Brown's property. In later years, another school was built on the same site for a further rising generation.
Finally, the Education Department erected the present school in the town of Ongerup. The second school, having outlived its usefulness, was purchased by the Country Women's Association, transported to the town 21 miles distance on log rollers hauled by two tractors and a host of willing helpers, and was officially opened by the State President of the C.W.A., Mrs. R. Dempster, on July 20, 1949.
FIRST BANK BUILDING
In 1914, the National Bank had a 10'x10’ weatherboard building erected on the lot between the now progressive Co-op and the Cafe.
Charlie Reever, manager of the National Bank, Gnowangerup, came out once weekly to gather up loose cash. This structure was dubbed the "concertina box."
Being built of weatherboard, it used to try and fold itself and play a tune each time the wind was a bit breezy, and when the wind abated, it would gently shudder itself back into position.
The Bank found business not very rampant, so closed the door and otherwise didn't come any more.
FIRST CO-OP WAS SHORT-LIVED
The building's next tenant was the early Ongerup and Needilup Co-op at a rental of 2/6 a week. This Co-op was started by a handful of shareholders in the early days of Wesfarmers as an agency but didn't show enough profit in commissions to pay the rent. Finally, it closed its doors.
THIRD TIME LUCKY
Well, they say, "Third time lucky." In 1920, only having a 1,000-acre property and two sturdy branches of the family and one bud at school (not forgetting the most essential cook), I looked for new pastures and opened up again the old "concertina box" as a Commission Agency for H. J. Wigmore, John Darling and Son as a wheat buyer and sundry buyer of produce in Perth.
One day, a cockeyed bob came along and nearly put paid to the old calaboose. So feeling a ball of energy one day, I ripped the weatherboards off two sides, put in some bracing, and stopped its capers of playing tunes in the wind. And the rent was still 2/6 a week.
Later, the bank decided to sell, giving me the first offer to buy. Not being then in any reasonable condition, I decided in the negative. It was finally purchased by Mr. W. P. Hill and exited "Millsie," then by A. G. Slee, then by that thriving emporium, the Ongerup and Needilup Co-op. I have been told it has found a peaceful spot out of the wind in the rear of their premises. Good work!
I BUILD
Nothing daunted, I was informed of a little cow paddock in the centre of the town belonging to no person. I applied for it and secured it at the upset price of £20, built a 12'x12' office with a floor capable of carrying a tractor.
War broke out in 1939, and being an old Imperial sweat of 1897 vintage, I got itchy feet and tried to join up in the Volunteer Squad.
I was told I was too old to throw paper bag flour bombs. However, the C.M.F. called for technicians, age limit 48, for the R.A.E. I was then about 60. I cut my age down to 46 to make sure and joined the 7th Works and Parks R.A.E. for the duration and two years after.
I sold my small office and interest to Mr. J. Barr Weir, who has, together with the help of his family, built up such a thriving business out of so small a beginning. A big hand to you, Joe!
LAND CLEARING AND EARLY FARMING
Turning the hands of the clock back to the early days again, the majority of the land was cleared of timber by either being pushed down or rolled by wood-burning traction steam engines, one of which, I believe, is standing in a pride of place in the Gnowangerup Showgrounds.
These traction engines had a high push-bar and a combination of steel rollers 42 feet in width. Rear wheels were fitted with loose tracks to run in, to avoid slipping on the sap of trees. Some horse-drawn rollers were used. Heavy salmon gums and mallet were cut with the now discarded axe (except for the firewood pile).
Cereal crops were grown to some extent but not a payable profit—3/- a bushel f.a.q. A butter factory was built at Gnowangerup, and the farmers took to dairying.
THE RAILWAY STRIKE
I am rather vague as to the year and extent of the railway strike and hold-up of transport, but I do remember horse teams and loaded wagons transporting goods on the Perth-Albany Highway.
A meeting was held as to the cartage of cream to the butter factory, and I was approached as I had a pair of horses and a light lorry to transport cream to the factory.
I would start out on Sunday evening, picking up cans en route, deliver them to the factory, pick up empties, and goods for Maudie's store.
FIRST ONGERUP TOWN HALL
In early 1927, tenders were called for the erection of the first hall, which was built with public subscriptions. I was the successful tenderer. It was officially opened on Easter Monday by the Hon. Alex Thomson, Member of Parliament, and Mr. John Vaux, chairman of the Hall Committee.
The Gnowangerup Brass Band volunteered their services for the occasion.
The day's sports and dance were a great success. Seating arrangements were good. The ladies provided mid-day lunch—ham, lamb, poultry, sweets for the small charge of 1/6, proceeds donated to the hall building fund. Early tea was provided for 1/-.
DISTRICT STARTS TO PROSPER
From 1927, everything seemed to be on the upgrade. Better cereal crops, bulk handling came in, trade and sales improved, and the old standby—the cow—gradually went out and sheep came in.
From 1929, tractors began to replace the horses. For some considerable time since 1939, I have been away from Ongerup—spent some years in Perth and Fremantle—and now comfortably retired in Albany.
But, like the old trombone, I keep sliding in and out occasionally, as I still have a warm spot for Ongerup, having witnessed the town grow from a patch of salmon gums, some of them still standing, to the progressive town of today.
In the foregoing, I have tried my best to give an authentic pen-picture from memory, subject to corrections, of course. Now permit me to have a quiet and pleasant crawl through the town as it stands in 1965.
ONGERUP TODAY
First, facing the approach off the Albany-Lake Grace Highway, prominently stands the War Memorial of 1914-1918 and 1939-45 and Korean Campaign.
Coming along from the northern end of the town, there is a prominent sign "Ambulance" most essential to any town.
The church is far removed from the Sunday sermons and hymns under the trees at Walkers' corner and the bush hall at Munro's corner.
Then the new residence of Mr. and Mrs. Lee Barrett, then the residence of Mr. and Mrs. Tom Edwards—in their lot once stood a blacksmith's forge under a spreading salmon gum tree where Athol Jones shod horses from 1/3 to 2/- a hoof, according to size—then an attractive garage run by Tom Edwards.
There is a small building erected in 1932 by Sid Martin where you obtained lollies and afternoon teas.
On silent picture nights, he brought along after the show in the hall, hot pies, tea, and coffee. The show usually wound up with a dance.
Next comes Weir's Emporium where you can purchase anything from a candle to a cat tractor.
Then the new cafe with spacious dining room and a post office and butcher's shop attached.
Not forgetting the Rural Bank, built in 1918, next door.
Facing us now, we see the railway dam, excavated by the Vincent Bros., contractors with teams of bullocks, 20 feet deep and now supplying the town's water.
Now we see the "daddy" of all, built in 1913, the old but not the least patronised cafe.
The old man concertina box of 1914 (removed only six months ago), then the new Hall.
ACROSS THE ROAD
Across the road, we meet Ongerup's contract carrier, Jim Brown, and the residence of Mrs. Brown and Jim; Mr. and Mrs. Jim Campbell with an up-to-date garage and their kerbside gardens, not forgetting Mr. and Mrs. Tom Hounsham.
Tom has handled the golden grain since 1927, except for his spell on War Service.
SECOND AVENUE
On Second Avenue, we see the decorator, R. B. Edwards, then the C.W.A. conducted by a band of ladies working for the benefit of all in general.
I have heard they worked persistently for the bridge over Warperup River, which was a long-felt want. At the C.W.A. the doctor consults every week.
Further along, we meet Mine Host, Archie Thomson of the hotel, the purveyor of liquid food.
THIRD AVENUE
On Third Avenue, we see the Baker and Mr. Ludlow, the plumber and wizard of the galvanised tin, and the spacious school building.
Still in Third Avenue, I see the "Cooler" and the residence of the Sporting "Cop" and his good lady, Mrs. Sporting Cop; keep up the good work, John!
The Hall of the R.A.O.B. and a garage owned by J. Bagshaw.
Finally, we find the golf course and 250-acre recreation grounds and race course allocated in 1927-28 adjacent to the overhead tanks supplying the town's water.
In conclusion, my best of wishes for health and prosperity for all old and new settlers and sporting organisations.”
|
